4. The crazy day

After 5 days in the peace of beautiful Grasslands National Park, broken twice by amazing storms, we headed to Maple Creek, with a stop at Fort Walsh, site of the Cypress Hills Massacre that led to the founding of the North West Mounted Police. (Later to become RCMP).

We stopped in at the little town of Val Marie outside the park for more supplies and fill our fresh water tanks at the local campground, which is unattended, just a garden hose. We took advantage of the hose and washed all the dirt off the van from the wild dirt road ride into the parks days ago. Supplies included mousetraps as I had been woken up that morning with one near my head EEEEKKKKKK! Not sure where we picked him up, but it was a rude awakening as I leapt out of bed!

So off we went on my usual ‘avoid major highways route’. And then the rain started, and it got less flat, but even in the flat parts Bob said it was like driving on ice because the wet dirt/gravel road was greasy. There were a few times I thought we may pull a Thelma & Louise, but I tried to be as calm as Mr. Unflappable AKA Bob.

Eventually the rain stopped but we were lost and there are many parts of the area that have no cell service. So, we pulled into a farm where two very handsome, older, real cowboys greeted us very kindly and commented on how far we were from home. If they had any internal snickering at the dumb city folk, they hid it well. We had a lovely conversation with them, and they gave us directions. We were very close to the fort, but it was quite the road to get there. The cowboy had said ‘You’ll come to a sharp coulee, stay left at the top, on to the paved road and you’ll be there shortly’.

We did not know what a coulee was, and I wish I had taken a photo but was too concerned in the moment. Bob was super cool as usual as we went down the steep gravel hill, recently rained on and slippery, and up the other side, just as steep, to a sharp left onto the pavement. OMG – I held my breath and said my prayers the whole time!

As we pulled into the Fort parking lot, we were both pretty rattled, so I distracted myself with making lunch and coffee & tea while Bob did a little walk about. I was shocked when I saw the van, it was 1000 times dirtier than before we washed it that morning. The bikes were caked in mud. Oh well, I was just happy to be safe! Also was wondering if the mouse had been shaken loose or maybe chose suicide. He had no idea what crazy people he had hitched a ride with.

While in the parking lot we noticed a cool Ms. Frizzle kind of mini school bus van. Sure enough, out comes Denise, not far off from Ms. Frizzle herself. An older woman from New Brunswick, she had been travelling on her own for the past two years. She was also the tonic we needed at that point and had us laughing about our exploits and sent us walking down a trail to the fort to de-stress.

I was only about 100 meters down the trail when we noticed a red-tailed hawk circling and acting very territorial. Bob, of course, kept going. I looked up and the bird has made eye contact with me and was about to dive bomb me. As I ran up the hill, Bob came back. I was freaked out and did not want to further upset a bird of prey. I had visions of being scalped by it. As an aside, Bob thinks my regular fears of being maimed or killed are laughable. These are legit fears!!

Then a few other people came by and walked down the hill together. Bob convinced me walking with the group would be better and it was. But I walked fast. The Fort was very interesting to look around. It was not actually open, but we could walk around and peek in windows. There was one park staff in the stables who let us step in if we promised not to tell anyone. He filled us in on the history of raising horses for the RCMP. We learned RCMP all had to be able riders up until the 1960s when they relaxed that rule.

We made our way back to the parking lot by a different route and our new friend Denise came by with a book she was finished with: Uncle John’s Bathroom Reader! Well, we do have a bathroom.

She had planned to head back to Maple Creek but was nervous of the hills because of the iffy brakes on her school bus so thought she would spend the night and try it the next day when the roads were drier. Once she heard we were headed that way she thought she might go ahead, and we’d follow and keep an eye on her. Not sure what help we’d be but ok! So, we convoyed to town and waved goodbye.

We found a truck wash facility in town that was fun – you drive in and go to town with pressure hoses and soap. Bob never looked happier getting that mud off!